It is like invisible magic, drawing and fixing the gaze: refining an item of jewellery with fire enamel lends it depth, expressiveness and, of course, colour. Especially when guilloché work on the surface below ensures diverse refraction of the light. The almost erotic attraction of this rare jewellery technique is felt by all who regard themselves connoisseurs of fine art. Gold enamel jewellery is among the classics reawakened from their slumbers by Victor Mayer and paired with modern design elements to become contemporary, premium jewellery for the self-assured woman. Understatement also plays a role: for few are aware just how much craftsmanship and know-how flow into these extraordinary jewels.
Delicate rose or luminescent red, intensely-radiant blue or aristocratic gray – seductive colours filled with pride and gracefulness that characterize the enamel jewellery of Victor Mayer. Further refined by the guilloché patterning engraved in gold that lends the surface an unexpected three dimensionality. The combination of rare craftsmanship, the triad of glass, gold and guilloché together with the enchanting forms and designs make many models of the enamel jewellery collection popular collector’s pieces.
Although rich in tradition, the art of enamel has become rare. Because working with flowing or molten glass requires a great deal of effort, outstanding technique and a wealth of experience. As a consequence, there are few manufactures internationally producing enamel jewellery of this quality. A special luxury, beyond mainstream and labels, casual elegance for the aficionados amongst jewellery lovers.
Enamel jewellery for the connoisseur
It is possible for a woman to fall in love quite spontaneously with an enamel pendant or an enamel ring with matching coloured stone. Because the colours are delightful or the engraving fascinating. This is the beginning of a wonderful friendship…! More likely, however, is the discovery of enamel jewellery as the crowning point of an exciting “jewellery career”. When a woman has already become acquainted with and tried a great many pieces, trained her taste and honed her senses. When the aim is not to demonstrate the worth of an item, but to understand that worth.
To know that the engraving was applied by hand, that working with fire enamel is the preserve of a handful of specialists, that each step in the creative process is undertaken with the utmost care and precision. And yes: the knowledge that this jewellery is far more than merely decorative. It is a confident woman, elegant and wise as well as a little bold, she is classical, but by no means prissy, both feminine and emancipated at the same time. And when her daughter borrows her jewellery she merely says: “Take good care of it!”
The feel for colour: the right styling
When the blue eyes of the jewellery wearer radiate faintly turquoise on certain days and the colour of her enamel pendant shimmers in the exact same tone, when the delicate pink of the outfit corresponds to the ring and the nuances of enamel and coloured stone, then she looks simply breathtaking. However, the more colours are added, the more skill is required in styling. And Victor Mayer has very many colours: enamel and coloured stones glow in the finest tones of the rainbow. When jewellery and outfit are combined tone-in-tone, the match is always a good one. Coloured jewellery accents on an outfit of discreet tones such as black or beige also look wonderful. In addition, when selecting a suitable jewellery colour, it may prove useful to take account of the nuances of eyes, hair and skin to avoid missteps with alternating outfits.
Women can stay on the safe side by selecting neutral tones such as a delicate gray or soft beige-rose for their enamel jewellery, enabling combination with almost every fashion colour. The classic forms and designs of the enamel collection make the pieces well-loved companions through day-to-day life. They are able to imply feminine elegance as well as casual sportiness. The more discreet the ornamentation, the more versatile the uses around the clock, with jewellery pieces featuring lavish diamonds and sparkling gemstones more suited to special occasions. Exceptions prove the rule.
Why enamel art can hypnotize
It is the transparency of the enamel that makes the magical effects possible. Experts refer to translucent enamel in contrast to opaque molten glass. Translucent enamel can develop fantastic, opalizing effects, which shimmer on the surface in diverse colour nuances. However, the key influence on radiance is exerted by the structures that are engraved into the gold at Victor Mayer and form the basis for the enamel. Guilloché, for example of symmetrical wave patterns, reflects the light in various angles, generating a three-dimensional effect.
The gaze is drawn into the depths –resulting in a hypnotic effect, as can be observed, for instance, in the “Trance” line. Other structures engraved into the gold also refract the light, creating brilliance and shades of colour. These engravings can be chosen individually, serving to personalize the jewellery.
This jewellery is inimitable
Yes, it still exists today: jewellery that simply cannot be copied. Because the combination of technically sophisticated and scarce hand craftsmanship is a unique selling point of Victor Mayer that is (almost) unique of its kind. Above all, the focus is on fire enamel, the art of molten glass. This should never be confused with the application of cold enamel, which is a cold-curing synthetic resin system. Further distinct examples of craftsmanship include guilloché, with old manufacturing techniques such as embossing and stamping as well as turning and diamond dressing also calling for special abilities from man and machine.
Even the chains of Victor Mayer feature a hand-guilloché signet. Consequently, in Shanghai, where Victor Mayer has its first stand-alone boutique, Chinese experts respectfully concede: “We cannot copy this.”
Continuous reinvention of classics
A particular feel for classic design is evident in all jewellery pieces and creations. Extending back over 125 years, the company’s own history provides it with a treasure trove of historical role models and sketches, particularly from definitive eras of jewellery development such as Classical Modernity, Art Déco and Fin de Siècle. The classic role models are reworked by young designers and adapted to the contemporary, Central European aesthetic.
Which is never about fashion, always about style. In the past, as today, enamel jewellery does not reveal the special artistry behind it. The pendants, necklaces, bracelets and rings appear to have a natural perfection, as if they were created effortlessly and could only ever look this way.
Discover more jewellery designs
in the characteristic style of Victor Mayer