Gemstones and brilliant-cut diamonds also only achieve their true splendour when they are treated with dignity and care. Our setters are aware of this and act accordingly. Their hands create perfect diamond patterns and artistic free forms that are seldom found, even in the world of truly premium jewellery. A high-quality seat conceals the gemstone as little as possible. It underscores the beauty of the natural stone. Of course, we place great emphasis on ensuring that the stones are obtained from ethically-sound sources.
In the 18th century gemstones and diamonds were still being set by the goldsmiths that produced the jewellery. Today, quality requirements have increased significantly. The jewel setter has now become a specialist profession in its own right. His task is to anchor gemstones into a piece of jewellery securely and effectively, thus underscoring the concept dictated by the designer. The jewel setter works almost exclusively under the microscope. He grinds, drills, hammers, chases and forms with great dexterity, expertise and experience.
One of the most common setting techniques is micro pavé, in which the brilliant-cut diamond is held by tiny gold beads. In so-called chaton settings, another common method, the diamond or coloured gemstone is adjusted from below via a weave of fine gold wires and stabilised with small, individually-formed, artistic claws.
Setting gemstones is a difficult and physically-demanding craft in which highest precision is required in the tiniest of dimensions. For example, a micro pavé consists of numerous individual diamonds, each of which may have a diameter of less than one millimetre, but that are nonetheless cut with 56 facets.
When adjusting the settings and securing the gemstones it is important to work in a concentrated and precise manner, as even small mistakes and inaccuracies can result in damage being caused to the gemstone or seat. The finish, which involves working the seat with tiny files, also calls for maximum concentration. We only accept perfectly smooth seats, as when they are worn the finest fabrics must be able to pass over our jewellery without snagging.
If premium jewellery is a subject close to your heart, then you share our respect for the artistry of the jewel setter. Enquire whether a stone has been expertly set by hand.